![]() I assume you are not talking about trying to add isocyanate catalyst ahead if time. Having more liquid and less air in the container is a good idea too. Occasionally, some of the pigments will agglomerate in the bottom of the can where they just won't go back into suspension, but most have been fine. I have many reduced coatings in cans that have been on the shelf for many years. ![]() If you are reducing with a thinner that is not 100% compatible with the resin, that can cause problems too, but if it is the correct recommended solvent it should be perfectly fine. Since the mixing ratio is 1:1, reducer is then added to the cup up to the 6 mark.I now have enough RTS base color to apply at least three medium wet coats to. The thinner the paint, the more likely it will be to settle rock solid. Generally coatings are made and stored in higher viscosity to help keep the pigments in suspension. The only real issue with adding solvent ahead of time is that the thinner viscosity paint will tend to settle harder. I may not post up here much, but when I do it is to offer some sound advice to help someone and hopefully give them piece of mind that they are fixing their pride and joy correctly.Some strange responses to your question in my opinion.The pre-addition of reducer won't cause your paint to harden. I have spent my entire career in the collision/restoration field. I would hate to have a person have to strip a car down, or redo it at some point for product failure because of bad internet advice. ![]() I am offering knowledge to do it right the first time. First, mix the color and hardener together in the correct ratio typically this is 2:1 with an additional 10 of thinner added. Before using a paint gun, it is important to consider a few guidelines for best results. Like I said in a previous post, the time, labor and cost of materials is unbelievably expensive. How do you mix a base coat and reducer Some paint jobs require the use of a high-pressure spray gun. Tip: 1.41.5 HVLP / 1.3 1.4 compliant spray gun. Inlet Pressure: 20-24 psi HVLP/ 20-24 psi compliant spray gun. Or you get the bad information coming from a guy who is doing it all wrong, but since he has gotten away with it he makes statements as if it the correct way to do things. For optimal results, tack between each coat to reduce dry overspray. But then we have people who just join the forum this week, and have posted exactly twice, giving all bad and incorrect information. He hopes what is given is fact and takes all info at face value. On good faith, he goes on a forum and asks questions looking for guidance. ![]() This is what always freaks me out when a guy is trying to learn, and do the right thing when restoring his classic car. But, it is not necessary and can be painted without for sure. The original poster asked if it was recommended, which it is. If they didn't need it them why would they even make a hardener for the base? If the OEM's all want the base activated how bad can it be? There must be a reason, its flat out makes the products better, period end of story.Īnd of course no one is saying the base would fall off. However, even they recommend it, and in an OEM warranty situation flat say it has to be done. Read their product sheets, both systems, like DBC, can be mixed without an activator. Is it worth all the time, effort and money you have into your paint job to have it "maybe" work because the wrong product was mixed in? Can you imagine having to strip a panel, or god forbid the entire car based on bad info? Please don t ever do this.Ĭlick to expand.Ok first things first, no one recommends a activator in a 1K system, thats is the definition of 1k, one product, however, their basecoat system isn't 1K. Oh, and NEVER mix hardeners from one paint line with another. Hopefully you can do it right the first time with some knowledge and have great results! All paint products are stupidly expensive. I want people to understand how to do it right the first time. I know we all say the clear is dry, right? But it didn't dry. Versus a two component thermoset type product that can not be reflowed or softened. There is a huge difference between a thermoplastic, can be reflowed or softened with say thinner or something even after drying. The outsides of the cookie are nice and hard, but the inside is soft and can move, right? So why not activate the base as well? Otherwise you could, yes I said could end up having issues. Think of all the products you used in a full paint job. It turns a 1k product into a two component activated product. It helps for adhesion and chip resistance. However, some paint manufactures add hardener second, and thinner/reducer last. ![]() While not completely necessary to use DX57 in DBC base coat, PPG has always recommended it. A mixing ratio given as 4:2:1 normally means 4 parts of base product, 2 parts thinner/reducer, and 1 part hardener. Sadly paint store counter people will come off like they know a lot, and yet they don't. ![]()
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